Spend time in any modern European style restaurant kitchen and you will hear a lot of banter about how chefs make mashed potatoes. The recipe is as time tested and contested as it is classic. There are variances and disputes, sometimes heated arguments of passion between chefs. But the end product will always be something extraordinary. Classically made mashed potatoes, or potato puree are a simple form of pillowy art unto themselves. They serve as a basis for countless beautiful presentations.
When chefs make mashed potatoes they say that they should always be able to be judged on their own. This is even when they are often served as a subtle backdrop to something center of the plate. They’re fantastic with braised meats, sauteed vegetables, grilled fish, or pan roasted poultry. They are always, without question, made to be presented and tasted again and again before adding anything else as part of the equation.
What are the key elements to how chefs make mashed potatoes
As we mentioned there is some room for changing criteria and certainly many additions. Sometimes these are bizarre, and can influence the final product. However, there are a three standards we can all agree upon:
- The method. We will go into greater detail below. But even if you change the type of potato, or final seasoning, more often than not the method is a constant.
- Salt. There is an old expression among chefs: “If you have to ask if the potatoes need more salt, they need more salt.”
- Fat. Butter, and lots of it is always a winner. You can use whole milk, heavy cream, or any number of cheeses and dairy products. In the end, without butter, they just aren’t the same. Even when using coconut milk for example, butter is still the winner. There are vegan varieties that are great for sure such as with sweet potatoes. However, there is a reason that chefs would use expensive brands of butters just to melt into simple potatoes.
The method for how chefs make mashed potatoes
We will show in the recipe photos below some of the key necessities. Here are a few points to remember that have been proven to make svelt, creamy, and essentially other worldy pureed potatoes.
- Start with fresh potatoes. The starch changes with older potatoes, and they are more likely to “gluten”. This is a term which not literally refers to the potatoes becoming a starchy mess that needs to be thrown in the trash. Fresh starchy potatoes yield a more consistent, smooth product. There are dozens of varieties of potatoes, but typically good old fashioned Russet idaho potatoes work best. There is nothing wrong with mashed red, yukon, kennebeck, or other varities. However, for the purpose of these suggestions, the best result is made with these.
- Use the appropriate sized pan. Always try to use a sauce pan or pot that is neither too large or too small. Ideally it is smaller in diameter and taller to provide even cooking space. This facilitates the use of the right amount of water.
- The amount of water. Use just enough to cover and compensate for evaporation. Too much and the starch washes away, and too little and they can cook unevenly. Ideally cover them by about an inch.
- The size of the dice. Cut the potatoes into large cubes. Too large and they will cook unevenly. Too small and they can retain a lot of moisture, something we want to avoid. Ideally when they just begin to break down in the cooking they become cloudy.
- How long to cook. This will vary greatly depending on the quantity. Generally speaking, you should cook them until very soft, but not until falling apart and the water begins to become cloudy or milky in appearance. Undercooking can cause them to “gluten”, and overcooking can cause them to become watery. Test with a fork to see that they are breaking apart.
What are some additions that make mashed potatoes stand out?
Chefs make mashed potatoes in thousands of varieties since they are a blank slate for so many other flavors. On their own the simplicity is often enough and something to be cherished if done properly. However here are some other seasonings you may want to consider:
- Cheeses and other dairy. There are a lot to choose from here and few are wrong answers. Typically the best cheeses are neither too hard or too stringy. Some sheeps milk cheeses such as parmesan aren’t as useful as they remain grainy and don’t dissolve as well. String cheeses such as swiss are often too clingy. Cheddars, goat cheeses, semi aged and smoked varieties all work well. Even bleu cheese has rewards for those who like the funk. Also consider more molten cheeses such as camembert if removing the rind. Other dairy products such as triple creams, buttermilk, sour cream, and curds can work wonders also. Stay away from low fat products as they can “break” and leave clumps of protein in the puree.
- Strong aromatics. Roasted garlic, pureed caramelized onions, roasted pepper purees, and chiles are great. Chefs have even used smoked butter to add other dimensions to the puree.
- Additions of other root vegetables. You can cook other root vegetables in the same water to make a combination of flavors, mash colors, and textures. Carrots, winter squashes, beets, turnips, kohlrabi, celery root, and other similar starchy vegetables work great.
- Herbs. Chives, rosemary, savory, and parsley are a few that chefs often use.
- Stocks and sauces. Fortified protein based sauces such as veal jus, lamb or beef, roasted chicken, or game are often presented over the meat. These can be thought of as a kind of gravy that soaks into the potatoes and create a classic harmony. Think about adding a couple of spoonfulls of rich stock the into the mash if serving with the accompanying meats.
How chefs make mashed potatoes
Equipment
Instructions
- Prep the ingredients. Choose firm, fresh potatoes. Peel them just before using, then rinse gently. Chop into equal pieces, cubes about 1-2 inches.
- Cover with water. Cook rapidly over high heat. Cooking slow releases the starch differently and can affect the outcome. DO NOT STIR!
- Strain the potatoes when tender. Allow to steam for several minutes but make sure they are still hot. The dryer the better. You can dry in oven momentarily to help if needed. Add the potatoes to the food mill and process little by little. Scrape down the sides from time to time and run the mill backwards to make sure you are processing all before adding more. This prevents them from becoming waxy. Use the same pot you cooked them in to mill the potatoes into. This helps preserve the starch.
- Using a rubber spatula, season to taste with salt, milk or cream, and butter. Adjust as necessary depending on the natural starch of the potatoes you used. Pour onto serving dish and add butter, herbs, cheese, or jus. Bon appetit!
